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Pipe smoking 101

KarmaSutra

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Ok fellas, Here's my take on beginners smoking a pipe from pipesmokers.org:

There's really no big deal to lighting a pipe; it just takes some
practice. First, get yourself a quality pipe and some good tobacco. I
like Petersons and GBDs; they're usually a good buy. Avoid pipes with
lacquer finishes, or with a lot of "fills" (putty applied to smooth
over surface defects). Rough-surfaced pipes are fine, though, and
usually cost a little less (and smoke cooler). You should plan on
spending $30-50 for a decent pipe; smoke shops are usually willing to
bargain on price, and often have sales. Look them over and buy the
one you like best; it's largely a matter of personal preference.

Amphora Regular, or a similar mild non-aromatic or light aromatic
Burley/Virginia blend, would be a reasonable tobak for a beginner.
Keep the package tightly sealed to keep it fresh. Experiment with
tobaccos until you find what you like. It helps to get a tobacco that
your wife or girlfriend likes, so get her input. If she doesn't like
pipes at all, get a new one of those, too. :)

Also get a package of cleaners, a bottle of pipe sweetner, a LOT of
wooden matches :), and a pipe tool with tamper, reamer, and scraper.
I have a neat little one made by GBD; it looks like a silhouette of a
pipe, and has wooden sides. It cost me about $12.

Now, to the matter of lighting. Pack the tobacco a bit at a time,
perhaps 1/3 of the bowl. You want to have it slightly springy, neither
loose nor tight. It should be easy to draw through. Use the reamer to
loosen it if it's too tight.

Light a match and hold it horizontally until the match completely
catches fire. Then hold it horizontally over the bowl, puffing and
moving the match in a circular motion over the tobacco until it is
alight. Avoid burning the edge of the bowl when you light up. After a
little while, the tobacco may go out. If so, tamp it down a little and
re-light. If there's a lot of ash in the bowl, empty it out without
knocking the pipe, then tamp and re-light.

You may find the pipe getting a little juicy as you smoke. To avoid
this, try to keep your mouth dry as you smoke, and avoid swallowing.
If it does get juicy, run a cleaner down it to clear it out. However,
don't take the stem off the pipe while it's still hot, as this will
eventually cause the stem to get loose. (You can, however, take a
military-type push stem off a hot pipe; many Petersons and Savinellis
have this feature.)

Try to puff rhythmically. If the pipe gets too hot, or if your tongue
gets "bitten", slow down, or lay the pipe down and let it cool awhile
if necessary. If the pipe goes out a lot, speed up. Before too long
you'll find a good rhythm.

Try to smoke your pipe all the way down, as long as it's pleasant.
This helps build up an even layer of "cake" (carbon) inside the bowl.
When you're done, clean all the dottle (ashes and unburned tobacco)
out of the bowl with the reamer. Avoid banging your pipe on the
ashtray, as this can make dents in the pipe. Put a cleaner in the
(cool) pipe until the next time you smoke it, to absorb any leftover
juice and help keep it clean.

"Break-in" refers to the initial carbonization of the bowl. Many
pipes now come with pre-carbonized bowls and require no break-in. I'd
recommend such a pipe for a beginner. However, it's desirable to
maintain a 1-2 millimeter layer of cake for a cool, even smoke.

If your pipe smokes sour or gurgles, if there's a lot of goo inside
the stem, or if the cake is very thick, it's time for a cleaning. This
usually will have to be done every 5-10 smokes. First, use the knife
blade of the pipe tool to scrape the cake to the proper thickness.
Then use the reamer to get any heavy goo out of the wood part of the
air hole of the stummel (the wood part of the pipe). Dip a cleaner in
the pipe sweetner, and run it through the stem; repeat with fresh
cleaners until they come out clean. Repeat with the stummel air hole;
be careful not to get any cleaner on the outside of the pipe, as this
harms the finish. After cleaning, let the pipe rest a few hours before
smoking it again, to give the sweetner a chance to dry out.

Lastly, enjoy! Don't smoke if you don't feel like it. It should be a
pleasurable pastime.
 
Last edited:

KarmaSutra

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Pipe smoking 101 class II

PIPE TYPES
----------

BRIAR: This is the closely-grained burl joint between the stem and roots of
the White Heath, a tree found on the hillsides of mainly Mediterranean
countries. Underground, this burl protects the briar wood, which is tough,
close grained, porous, and nearly impervious to heat. Good briar is hard to
find. The larger shrubs take a long time to mature...and the older the
shrub the better the briar and thus your pipe. The most suitable root may
be 80 to 100 years old, and the finest pipe briar may be from a shrub over
200 years old... aged and mellowed by time.

MEERSCHAUM: A German word meaning literally, "sea-foam," alluding to the
belief that it was the compressed whitecaps of waves. Meerschaum is a
mineral - hydrous silicate of magnesium - one of the most porous substances
found in nature. Composed of the fossilized shells of tiny sea creatures
that fell to the ocean floor millions of years ago, meerschaum is found in
red clay deposits. Meerschaum deposits of the highest quality are found
only in one place in the world - Eskishehir, in central Turkey.

AFRICAN BLOCK MEERSCHAUM comes from Tanzania, Africa and is usually stained
in varying shades of brown, black and yellow.

MISSOURI MEERSCHAUM: The All-American Corncob pipe. It is a length of
hollowed-out corncob, usually from a special hybrid variety of corn, with
a straight wooden stem and, sometimes, a inexpensive plastic mouthpiece.
Some veteran pipe smokers buy corncobs by the dozens, smoke one until it
burns out or goes sour, then throw it away and light up another. (If a
youngster uses yours to blow soap bubbles, buy another.)

CALABASH: A South African gourd similar to a squash grown specifically for
use in pipes. The shape is determined as the gourd grows by placing small
blocks under the stem, forcing it into a gentle curve. The mature gourd is
cut and dried, then fitted with a cork gasket to receive a meerschaum bowl.
The finished pipe offers one of the coolest, driest smokes available.
Immortalized by Sherlock Holmes and in Jimmy Durante's signature line -
"Good night Mrs. Calabash - wherever you are."

CLAY PIPE: Clay or pottery pipes were very popular in England and in Europe
before the discovery of briar. In London coffee houses and clubs,
long-stemmed "Church wardens" and "London Straws" were universally accepted.
The finest clay for pipes is said to be found in Devon, England.

HOOKAH: Also known as a WATER-PIPE or occasionally HUBBLY-BUBBLY. The
Turkish hookah filters the pipe smoke through water (or booz) for
extra coolness. Many styles of hookah exist including those with
multiple mouth pieces so that several may enjoy the tobacco (or
hashish) simultaneously.

The tobacco used in the hookah is usually dried whole leaf, soaked and
crumbled, or canned, mixed with various herbs and flavors. The very moist
tobacco is heaped into the bowl and covered with a small charcoal fire.

OPIUM PIPE: An Oriental water-pipe, normally made of brass with a very tiny
bowl used for smoking opium. Opium pipes are frequently seen with 12 or 18
inch long stems and fancy braiding.

CAST IRON: Normally used to carry natural gas.


PIPE PARTS:
-----------

BOWL: The part of the pipe that holds the tobacco.

HEEL: The base of the inside of the pipe bowl.

SHANK: The part of the pipe that joins the bowl and the stem.

STEM: The part that connects the shank with the bit.
Examine it carefully. Its quality, finish and fit will reveal the maker's
carelessness or attention to detail.

BIT: The part of the pipe stem that fits in the mouth. Also called the
MOUTHPIECE.

BITE-PROOF STEM: A bit designed with a solid center portion at the mouth to
prevent the "canine" tooth from punching a hole in it as readily as is done
in a standard bit.

AMBEROID STEM: A fusion of Bakelite and pure amber - usually used with
meerschaum pipes.

BAKELITE STEM: Trade name for a synthetic resin widely used for lacquers
and varnishes and as a plastic. A common material used for the stem,
especially of mass produced pipes. An alternative to vulcanite.

AMBER: brittle, feels like glass to the teeth - Usually used with
meerschaum pipes.

VULCANITE: A dark-colored variety of India rubber that has been subjected
to vulcanization : also called "hard rubber." A common material used for
the stem, especially of mass produced pipes.

LUCITE: Trade name for a plastic. A common material used for the stem,
especially of mass produced pipes.

HORN STEM: Animal horn - often found on inferior meerschaum pipes

BONE STEM: Animal bone - often found on inferior meerschaum pipes


PIPE ACCESSORIES:
-----------------

PIPE CLEANERS: Indispensable - two types - "soft and fluffy" to dry up
moisture or "thin and wiry" to dig out deposits.

LIQUID PIPE CLEANERS: Also called PIPE SWEETENERS, dissolve the gum and tar
while leaving a fresh aroma in the bowl, stem and mouthpiece. Frequently
featured in the "Dennis the Menace" comic strip.

SMOKERS COMPANION: Also called MULTI-PURPOSE PIPE TOOL, a spoon, a pick,
and a tamper in a metal holder. Usually built like a pocket knife, often
accompanied by a "knife blade reamer."

PIPE REAMER: A tool for smoothing out the "cake" and trimming it down to a
desired size. Reamers come in a variety of shapes and functionalities.

PIPE RACK: A storage place for your pipes. To most enjoy pipe smoking one
needs several pipes to accommodate one's moods and activities.

HUMIDOR: A thing in which to store tobacco. Ideally - cheap and air-tight
(try Tupperware) - one places fresh tobacco in it and once sealed, it will
maintain the tobacco in a smokable consistency indefinitely. A major
alternate use of a humidor is the "re-moistening" of dried out tobacco.
For this action one adds a source of moisture to the tobacco in the humidor
before sealing.


PIPE TERMS:
-----------

CAKE: A small layer of protective carbon allowed to form and remain in the
bowl of a briar pipe. The cake protects the briar from burning but too much
cake can split the pipe by causing uneven heating of the bowl.

DOTTLE: Unburned tobacco left in the heel of a pipe.

TONGUE BITE: Irritation of the tongue, usually caused by smoking
tobacco that is too wet, or by puffing too hard.

MYOB: Acronym for "mind your own business." Suggested rejoinder to
nasty antismokers who bother you for no conceivable reason.


PIPE FINISHES:
--------------

SANDBLAST: A finishing technique which leaves a rough surface.

FILLS: Places where a wood filler has been used to smooth over surface
defects. Generally regarded as lessening the pipe's value.

CARNAUBA WAX: A very hard wax, used to give pipes their finish.

STRAIGHT GRAIN: Refers to the wood grain in the briar.

BIRDSEYES: Small circles in the wood grain.


PIPE STYLES:
------------

APPLE: A pipe with a rounded bowl, in the shape of an apple.

BENT: A curved stem pipe.

BILLIARD: A common shape. Straight stem, slightly rounded vertical
bowl.

BULLDOG: A pipe with a round bowl and a pointed heel and shank.

CANADIAN: An unbent pipe with a long shank and a straight vertical
bowl.

CHURCHWARDEN: A pipe with an extremely long stem.

DUBLIN: An Irish style, shaped after the clay pipe. Straight shank,
bowl leans forward slightly.

FREEHAND: Also known as DANISH FREEHAND. An asymmetric, one-of-a-kind shape.

OOM PAUL: A large-boweled bent stemmed pipe name for the Boer leader who
smoked this variety.

POKER: A cylindrical bowl and stem, without bend.

PRINCE: A squat, rounded bowl and a stem bent near the mouthpiece.

WOODSTOCK: The same as a DUBLIN with a slightly curved stem.
 

KarmaSutra

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Pipe smoking 101 class III Pipe tobacco

TOBACCO:
--------

TOBACCO: A member of the plant family "Solanaceae" which also includes
tomato and potato plants. Around 40 kinds of tobacco exist.

QUALITY: Tobacco is graded by leaf type and quality. There are five grades -
choice, fine, good, fair, and low. These are set by the tobacco's
uniformity, texture, age, oil, body, coloring, etc.

NICOTIANA: The botanical name for tobacco after Jean Nicot who introduced
tobacco into Europe around 1560.

RALEIGH, SIR WALTER: He popularized smoking at Queen Elizabeth's court
around the mid 16th century and was believed to be the first to smoke a
pipe in England.

TOBAGO: Columbus discovered it in 1498, and according to legend, named it
after the shape of a Carib pipe smoked on the island.


Tobacco Cuts:
------------

FLAKE CUT: Tobacco packaged as large, flat flakes. Must be rubbed
out to separate the flakes.

RIBBON CUT: Tobacco cut into long, thin ribbons, though not as long or
as fine as SHAG.

CUBE CUT: Tobacco chopped into small square pieces.

SHAG: Tobacco which has been shredded very finely. Renowned as the
type of preference for Sherlock Holmes; at that time, shag was
considered an inferior grade.

RUBBING OUT: Separating tobacco pieces prior to smoking, by rubbing in
the palm of the hand. Must be done with FLAKE or PLUG cut tobaccos.

Basic blending tobaccos:
------------------------

VIRGINIA - red / black / lemon / orange / orange-red
The mildest of all blending tobaccos has the highest natural sugar content.
Used in virtually all blends as it is a good burner and aids in lighting.
It imparts a light sweet taste when used in moderation

BRIGHT - From the Carolinas
BURLEY - "white Burley" - a natural tobacco taste with a soft character
that will never "bite."

CAVENDISH - Cavendish is a process of curing and a method of cutting
tobacco leaf; the term does not refer to a tobacco, but a type of
manufacturing process. The processing and the cut are used to bring out the
natural sweet taste that is a characteristic of Virginia tobacco. This
process will create a tobacco very light in taste, quite mild and easy to
pack. Black - Traditional Navy Cavendish, aged naturally with dark
Jamaican rum .

"Taste" tobaccos:
-----------------

PERIQUE - From Louisiana
Havana - From Cuba
Yenidji -

Oriental "spice" tobaccos:

LATAKIA - From Syria/Cyprus (richly smoked and fermented)
Latakia was "discovered" when a bumper crop resulted in surplus, and the
excess tobacco was stored in the rafters. The village farmers
traditionally used camel dung (or other dung, I suspect) as a source of
fuel, and the smoke cured tobacco was revealed the following season.
Today, Latakia is smoked over a smoldering fire of aromatic herbs. The
camel no longer has to process the herbs first!

DUBEC - From Turkey
XANTHI - From Macedonia province of Greece
KOMOTINI- From Macedonia province of Greece
DRAMA - From Macedonia province of Greece
SERRES - From Macedonia province of Greece
SAMSUN - From the southern coast of the black seas
IZMIR - From Western Turkey
 

PRMoon

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My pipe has a slow burning cap on it that prevents it from going out. It was handed down to me by my grandfather. That cap definately makes a differance as I almost NEVER have to re light, but also burns just about anything left in the bowl after I've had my fill.
 

flippinfreak

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I thought your supposed to credit the original poster?

What's with all the knock off's and plagiarizing?

Copyright (C) 1999 by Stephen P. Masticola
 

Bvbidd

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Sure you got tabbaco in that pipe?

Smoking a old fashioned pipe is unsexy as ****.
 

KarmaSutra

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flippinfreak said:
I thought your supposed to credit the original poster?

What's with all the knock off's and plagiarizing?

I just started smoking a pipe and I'm nowhere near as proficient as I am with my cigars. Proper credit was given at the beginning of the post from pipesmokers.org

I loathe hacks. Thanks for pointing it out though brother.
 

Egoist

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Pipes are kinda cool, but maybe when I am 60. It would be kinda scary to see a young guy with a pipe in public.. LOL.


but yeah i think i'll stick to my cigars... MMMMMM cigars.. Oh and hookah!
 

souporman

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Egoist said:
It would be kinda scary to see a young guy with a pipe in public.. LOL.
unless it was glass and filled with marijuana
 
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