Hello Friend,

If this is your first visit to SoSuave, I would advise you to START HERE.

It will be the most efficient use of your time.

And you will learn everything you need to know to become a huge success with women.

Thank you for visiting and have a great day!

Investing in... Bonds

al77

Master Don Juan
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
0
Location
Great Lakes
Does anyone invest in bonds?

I found that it is possible to invest in municipal bonds.
High grade AAA bonds could pay 8-10%.
Capital gain from bonds is exempt from local and state taxes,
it esspentially means I should not pay my local 3.9% tax.
So the interest can be as high as 12-14%.

For goverments bonds series I this is about 6%: you can be sure 100% you will have your money back here.

There is one problem associated with bonds: once you buy them you commit your money for the whole year. You cannot get them back with interest, or maybe you cannot even get them back at all in the first year.

What is your experience about investing in bonds these days?
 

Bible_Belt

Master Don Juan
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
17,036
Reaction score
5,625
Age
48
Location
midwestern cow field 40
Generally, bonds are for people who have already established themselves financially and wish to diversify more. The benefit of tax-free bonds is obviously greater for people who pay the most taxes.

Bonds are *not* safer than stocks. They go up and down in value just like stocks. If you want to sell before maturity, you can take just as big of a hit as from a tanking stock. US Government Bonds are as safe as the promise of the US government, which has never defaulted on debt. Although there is no such thing as 100% safe. The ancient Romans probably thought they would be on top forever, too. For older people and as the safest part of a portfolio, gov't bonds and bond funds have their place. Savings bonds are for grandmothers and little kids.

Most bonds do not carry the Fed's backing. As the risk goes up, so does the potential return. States and Muni's are more risky than Fed bonds, but less than corporate bonds. The riskiest bonds would be issued by overseas corporations.

I think bonds have their place in a diversified portfolio, but the same can be said for stocks, different economy sectors, real estate, oil (up 60% this year, btw), metals, Asia funds, Europe funds, and cash.

If you invest in bonds, understand the inverse relationship that exists between the movement of rates versus bond values. If rates go up and new bonds come out at a higher rate, less people will want the old bonds and they go down in value. As rates go down, the older bonds become more valuable. Also learn the Moody's/ S&P rating systems.

http://www.axaonline.com/rs/3p/sp/5061.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bond
 

A-Unit

Master Don Juan
Joined
Aug 6, 2004
Messages
1,518
Reaction score
44
Re:

I don't invest directly in bonds.

There's government/municipal/state/county vs corporate.

Rates aren't that high either, not yet anyways. You're talking yield and interest rate. Different. Yield is rate + the price discount or premium you pay. For instance, bonds increased in YIELD back in the late 90's because bonds had been paying 7+% while the market was soaring. Then everyone jumped to bonds Rocketing their prices northward since their was a flight to quality and safety. Current bonds rates are between 4-8%. Top tier AAA bonds pay the lowest, since they have the least risk. The highest paying coupons are usually junk bonds or high yields, which are low class corporate date on companies that COULD go bankrupt or saw their credit status DROP big time.

Individual Corporate bonds require greater contribution of funds, normally lots of $10,000 are bought and most lots are bought by corporations and funds, rather than individual investors.

I met 1 significant private investor who's portfolio was worth $4,000,000+, and enjoyed the market because it's not as ADVERTISED as the stock, forex, or currency markets. He lived off the passive income and traded the portfolio around all the time, amassing games superior to the average performance of the market. The key here is: he specialized. He didn't really diversify, and whilt that MAY sound risky, it isn't, because he knows bonds. He undestands them. Stocks aren't risky to Buffett, and they never were. Nor did Livermore ever find them risky, since he knew them.

I wouldn't deter anyone from them, but it was as easy as getting 7+% by investing $1,000 right now, I'd do it all day, and so would ALL people, driving coupons down and prices of bonds up. The other risks to consider are that, if you're in a LONG bond, it fluctuats significantly based on rates NOW. You're money isn't tied up, as there are EXCHANGES where bulk lots are traded.

I know of some top funds paying a net yield of 4-6% after fees. Just basic mutual funds with a 5 star rating. The risk you face here is INTEREST rate risk, because if rates go UP, your current bonds go down in value to compensate future investors. If you hold, there's no loss.


Just some of my exp.



A-Unit
 

al77

Master Don Juan
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
0
Location
Great Lakes
Re: Re:

Originally posted by A-Unit
I don't invest directly in bonds.

I wouldn't deter anyone from them, but it was as easy as getting 7+% by investing $1,000 right now, I'd do it all day, and so would ALL people
Hey A-Unit,

I guess my info on municipal bond rate was too old. Now it is much lower. But....
Have you heard about goverment bonds series I?
http://www.savingsbonds.gov/indiv/products/ibonds_glance.htm

The summary:
------------------
Current Rate: 6.73%

I Bonds earn a guaranteed real rate of return. They are an accrual-type security. Interest is added to the bond monthly and is paid when you cash the bond.

I Bonds are sold at face value; i.e., you pay $50 for a $50 bond

Minimum term of ownership: 1 year

Early redemption penalties:
Before 5 years, forfeit 3 most recent months'interest
After 5 years, no penalty

Tax Considerations
Interest earnings are exempt from State and local income taxes, Interest earnings are subject to Federal income tax.

Denominations: Paper bonds: $50, $75, $100, $200, $500, $1,000, $5,000, $10,000
Electronic bonds via TreasuryDirect: purchase to the penny for $25 or more
---------------

Is not it what you want?
1. You can enjoy 6.73% rate of return (which is almost 7%)
2. You don't have to pay state income tax (5.3% for MA.)
3. Must hold bonds only for 1 year minimum (a disadvatange)
4. Safest investment.
5. Can buy almost in any denomination (sure can get $1000 at 6.73% too)

Maybe I missed somehting, but it seems something good: 7+5.3% but your money is tied up for 1 year.
Where would anyone find sometiing higher than 12.3% annually with practically 100% safety?

By the way, do you mind telling what do you invest in?
 

al77

Master Don Juan
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
0
Location
Great Lakes
Originally posted by Bible_Belt
Generally, bonds are for people who have already established themselves financially and wish to diversify more.

The benefit of tax-free bonds is obviously greater for people who pay the most taxes.
Interesting view. I have never thought that way.
If I didn't establish myself financially yet what I woudl be recommended to invest it? Very curious.

I guess most bond (i.e. exepct municipal ones) are tax free only on the state level, i.e. you dont pay state income tax on the bond interest. But hey, most states have a flat rate for state income tax... so in most cases it doesn't even matter much if you are rich or not. You pay a fixed percentage of state tax.
Did I misunderstood what you said?

I have a question though:
They say:
"Tax Considerations: Perhaps the biggest advantage of most munis is their tax-exempt income status. Income accrues tax free at the federal level and, in most cases, at the state and local levels as well.
However, investors may be subject to the Alternative Minimum Tax for certain private activity bonds. Capital gains, on the other hand, are fully taxable."

Ok, I got that municipal bonds are usually fully exempt from taxes. Great. But What do they mean by Capital gains, on the other hand, are fully taxable???...

if you get your bond back with the acquired interest in it, the interest is considered capital gains and will be taxed? But this conntradicts what they say in the first paragraph.
Could you clarify this please.
 

Bible_Belt

Master Don Juan
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
17,036
Reaction score
5,625
Age
48
Location
midwestern cow field 40
I don't think they count interest as capital gain. There are times when some bonds fluctaute wildly in value. You could buy the junkiest bonds out there, perhaps of a company in bankruptcy that looks almost certain to default. These bonds would cost almost nothing. But then if a big company bought out the bankrupt company and announced that they would honor all of their debt, the bonds are going to skyrocket in value. This would be like hitting the lottery, but it can happen.

Another reason that the capital gain is taxable is the principle of symmetry - they let you deduct the loss if you have one. If you can benefit from claiming a loss, you have to pay tax on getting a gain.

Of course, I have to add the caveat that this is not tax or legal advice, and that you should consult a cpa or tax accountant who will be well-versed in the current state of this rapidly changing and complex area of law.
 

al77

Master Don Juan
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
0
Location
Great Lakes
Originally posted by Bible_Belt
I don't think they count interest as capital gain. There are times when some bonds fluctaute wildly in value.
OK, so why they mentioned capital gains at all?
Is it because if the bonds I bought will go up in value, I'll have to pay taxes on this added value since it is considered captial gains but not on the interest they produce?
Do I get it right?
 

Page

Master Don Juan
Joined
Sep 3, 2001
Messages
2,010
Reaction score
1
Age
40
Location
Long Beach, CA.
Originally posted by Bible_Belt
I don't think they count interest as capital gain. There are times when some bonds fluctaute wildly in value. You could buy the junkiest bonds out there, perhaps of a company in bankruptcy that looks almost certain to default. These bonds would cost almost nothing. But then if a big company bought out the bankrupt company and announced that they would honor all of their debt, the bonds are going to skyrocket in value. This would be like hitting the lottery, but it can happen.

That's the only time where I would think about buying bonds.

Bonds are very safe most of the time, but they typically offer a low rate of return and take a long time to mature. I want something that can give a bigger return FAST. (something like real estate or any other appreciating asset. )

For example, I wish I'd bought gold a few years ago. In 5 years, it has practically doubled. Compare that with the typical rate of return on bonds.


Of course, the general situation is that high risk goes with high returns. It's good to supplement your other investments with bonds and things that are safer, but I wouldn't recommend making it the meat and potatoes of your portfolio.
 

cinephile

Senior Don Juan
Joined
Jun 24, 2004
Messages
234
Reaction score
0
Age
57
Location
Texas
Misunderstanding

Muni Bonds are meant for high income individuals who want to earn a little interest on their money while not being pushed into a higher tax bracket. They are a great device for that but should only be a part of a larger overall investment strategy.

As for the question concerning capital gains and taxes, The interest paid on Muni's is tax free on the federal level. Most states do tax the interest made on a Muni, though. So look into the specific of where you live. You will pay capital gains on a Muni if you sell before its expiration date at a profit.

The way to make real money on bonds is not so much on the interest paid but on the interest rate diferential. That is where you make the diference on the rate the bond pays compared to what current rates are. This is how PIMCO and the other Bond firms make their cash.

While bonds are cool and all, younger investor should consider diferent instuments as well.
 

Bible_Belt

Master Don Juan
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
17,036
Reaction score
5,625
Age
48
Location
midwestern cow field 40
OK, so why they mentioned capital gains at all?
Is it because if the bonds I bought will go up in value, I'll have to pay taxes on this added value since it is considered captial gains but not on the interest they produce?
Do I get it right?


Generally, all income is taxable. The tax-free feature is very special and from the government's perspective it is also very generous. Therefore, they qualify it by still applying capital gains and Alt Min tax.

http://personal.fidelity.com/products/fixedincome/fitaximplications.shtml

Interest Income
Subject to certain exceptions, interest income generated by individual bonds is taxable as ordinary income at the federal level. Interest income generated by municipal securities is generally income tax-exempt at the federal level and may be income tax-exempt at the state and local level too if the investor purchases certain bonds issued by the state in which the investor resides.

Capital Gains
If an investor sells an individual bond for a gain,** the gain attributable to accrued market discount is generally taxable as ordinary income at both the state and federal level. Any gain in excess of accrued market discount will generally be treated as a capital gain for federal tax purposes. Short-term capital gains are taxed as ordinary income. Net capital gains from bonds held for more than one year are long-term capital gains taxable at federal rates not in excess of 15%. Conversely, if the bond is sold for a loss, the loss is treated as a long- or short-term capital loss. Capital losses can generally be used to offset capital gains. Net capital losses can usually be used by individual taxpayers to offset up to $3,000 (or $1,500 if married filing separately) of other taxable income.

You may want to consult your tax advisor to determine how the tax treatment of income or capital gains or losses may impact your individual situation.
 

al77

Master Don Juan
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
0
Location
Great Lakes
Re: Misunderstanding

Originally posted by cinephile
They are a great device for that but should only be a part of a larger overall investment strategy.

As for the question concerning capital gains and taxes, The interest paid on Muni's is tax free on the federal level.

While bonds are cool and all, younger investor should consider diferent instuments as well.
What other parts of an investment strategy you were talking about? Stock?
Stock do not gurantee anything...I find it a bit risky, especially if you don't know how to deal with them (and in teh beginning of stock investing no one has experience with them).
If you reply on mutual funds, they usually get a low return very similar to bonds and still they do not gurantee anyhting. They can go down 20% easily. Will not happen with bonds.
 

cinephile

Senior Don Juan
Joined
Jun 24, 2004
Messages
234
Reaction score
0
Age
57
Location
Texas
No Guarantees

No investment is guaranteed. The risk involved with Bonds is that of inflation. Yeah you could be earing 7% annual, but what if inflation runs at 3 to 4%. In reality you would be earning less than 3%. The advantage with stocks is that Inflation should be priced into the value of the stock. Of course, there is no guaratee that the company will perform.

There are ways to avoid this thru proper diversification. The idea is to diversify your holdings over a variety of assets so that you have part of it oupacing the market at all times. If you wanted to do that with Bonds specifically, you would want to buy an assortment of bonds with diferent ratings. The easiest way for a small investor to do this is by buying into a varienty of diferent funds. While the gains may not be spectacular, they will be consistent.

Personally, to make substantial gains, an investor has to be willing to take on more risk through the use of leveraged instruments. This can be done with Futures, Options, or Mortgages. The results can be amazing but very erratic. I would only recomend it for those who have the time and patience to really work at it.
 

al77

Master Don Juan
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
0
Location
Great Lakes
Re: No Guarantees

Originally posted by cinephile
No investment is guaranteed.
The risk involved with Bonds is that of inflation. Yeah you could be earing 7% annual, but what if inflation runs at 3 to 4%.

If you wanted to do that with Bonds specifically, you would want to buy an assortment of bonds with diferent ratings. The easiest way for a small investor to do this is by buying into a varienty of diferent funds. While the gains may not be spectacular, they will be consistent.

This can be done with Futures, Options, or Mortgages.
When I say guranteed I meant what we usually mean: just a rate of return. For some goverment bonds it is fixed. You cannot lose money with lets say -7%. You will have your 7% no matter what.
With stocks you can easily go down 20% in even teh best year for ecomony.

Lets usyourself: can you consistently get 8-12% in stocks every year? No? Then you would be better off with bonds.
Yes, bonds are low rate investments. But how the heck you can get a lot with stocks? You have a stock system that is profitable?

Different bonds? What for? Why woudl you want to carry bonds with lower returns?? And how you can make higher returns by including bonds with lower return rate?
 

A-Unit

Master Don Juan
Joined
Aug 6, 2004
Messages
1,518
Reaction score
44
Re:

The general public averages, AVERAGES, under 3% on their stock investments.

Why?

They don't know what they're doing.
When they seek the counsel of an advisor, they chase returns and not diversification.
They pay more attention to planning a vacation than they do their finances.

The best advice I WOULD give, is to pick 1 class you like and go for it. Pick 1 asset class and dive right in. You can't erase ALL risk, but with risk, generally comes return.

Sure, a market DOES and WILL go down, but if you're SHORTING the market, you're profiting, so it isn't about GOING up all the time, or guarantees, it's about YOU, the investor knowing and trusting and evalutating risk and return.

I don't view the market as risky. I don't. We all see risk out there. There's lots of guys who come in as AFC's and emerge as a PUA, confident to approach women, when they formerly viewed it as 'risky.'

There are ways to limit losses on stocks.

[] Set a stop limit, so if the stock plummets, you have an order to prevent the super-plunge, assuming it is TASR, or Enron selling off. In fast dumping markets, ALL investors lose. Unless you're shorting it.

[]Buy a put option. Acts like insurance for a few hundred or thousand dollars, so that IF the market or your stock dumps, you profit by the downswing.

[]Sell a call option on a declining stock. Premium might be low, but you can profit by taking the premium on the option, and awaiting the expiration of the option. If the stock goes north, then you keep premium, but lose the stock, assuming they exercise.

[] Learn, learn, learn. And buy quality stocks, not high-fliers.

I won't assume you want ultimate wealth, but I would read much more to be educated and realize, if you invest in ANYTHING, the rate of return you get is inline with risk. You diminish personal risk, through education, which helps in life, with women, or investing and your career. The better you are, the more confident and the more selective you can be.

I've done stock picking since Hs/College, with fun money, and later with real money. I've had losers, but overall, with little effort, I've averaged 20%, through an up and down market. That was knowing WHAT to buy, and keeping an open mind to sell.

Resources:

[]Turtletrader.com
[]Warren Buffet
[]Benjamin Graham
[]The Millionaire Mind
[]Richest Man in babylon
[]Jesse Livermore
[]Stock Market Wizards and Market Wizards
[]William J Oneil - IBD

This assumes you want to be in the market.

The biggest misconception I find with people is wanting RETURN with NO RISK, but the best, and perhaps only way to control risk is through you personally, then taking added risk measures WHEN you invest. Those who lose, dump tons of money into penny stocks, making their first investment ever and then hope it goes up. Few investors have a plan, an exit strategy.

Buffett has one: He holds MOST stocks forever, because he RUNS the company. But if you aren't afforded that kind of control and visibility, then as an individual investor you need plans that might not go as far as Buffett's.

Sure, if I was buying a NewsPaper company, or a Football Franchise, I'd hold for as long as I want to be in on it, but I'd make sure I ran it so well, that when I sell my investment, I've doubled, tripled and so forth.

----------------------

A risk return scenario.

A building RIGHT near my home, formerly owned by Wang, an early computer company sold at a distressed price of $525,000. This building was BIG. But so was the operation of just OWNING it, and the electric bill, and the taxes, so you had to be an investor that had some access to cash.

In 1998, the owners were seeking to sell 1/3 of their share to raise cash for other projects. Know How much?

$34.5 million. Total Value in 1998 = $100,000,000.

Current Value in 2005 = Over $300,000,000.

That $525,000 with some hefty overhead expenses, corresponds into a RIDICULOUS rate of return. I can lost the link to the building, but I remember when the business was going down hill. PERFECT LOCATION. Even 1,000,000 would have been fair, given how big it is. 3 towers. Right near a cinema. Right off the highway. Plenty of parking lots. And restaurants, and very pleasing looking as a building. Even had a helicopter landing pad!

So risk return.

Guys will say...well I couldn't do that. Maybe not now, being broke, bad credit/no credit. But if you save/invest, learn, parlay cash, make connections, you COULD have been a partner in on that, or the orchestrater of it. Couldn't you? Imagine, do, be.

I GET what you're saying, but the biggest misconception is that bonds are NOT risky. The return or COUPON you get is the ONLY guarantee and that alone is guaranteed by the credit worthiness of the company. So it's not a guarantee. The type of guarantee that's near firm, comes from gov. debt, which has VERY lot rates of return.

The bond itself will fluctuate in value quite a bit, too.

+ 30 year bond, highest rate of return, because of long-term holding. fluctuates the most because of long-holding period. money available in open markets.

+ Shorter bonds are more liquid, but offer lower rates of return. They fluctuate less, too.

The happy medium here is to LEARN about investing in bonds, so you can OWN all maturities, all sectors, all industries, that diversifies risk, but kills your ROR.

Buffett always disliked excessive diversification, because if you're supposed to be a PRO, then you shouldn't require SO many different stocks or bonds, that make you look like the MARKET itself, though you spend so much on SELECTING stocks or bonds.

--------------------------

What I will say works, to an extent, but you have to discover what you want. With broads strokes, you can employ such things, but those in desire of wealth and riches pay heed.

[] Work on you. Find something you enjoy that provides REAL rates of return. Not just 8-10%, but 50, 100%. It's possible. There's guys I knew who worked @ Raytheon and did R/E part-time. Now he owns MANY apartments. He's been doing it for 30 years. How would you like to live in 30 years? Will you still NAYSAY real estate that it can't work? That you can't do and learn something like a PRO over 30 years!!!!

[]Begin a savings plan NOW. Even if you're planning or saving for a business TO COME, you should get the HABIT formed. 1 thing I did was break out everything into EASY spread sheets on excel, then set up bank accounts, trading accounts, and retirement accounts based on these. I follow it like I would a health plan. They're my controlling documents and I view my financial and professional life as if it were, and IS a business.

[]Learn to ROLL and PYRAMID profits forward. This goes for guys with 401k's and IRA's. Sure, $100 a month might sound low, but at $1000, and $2000, you can get into better mutual funds, REITS, or if you're confident with stocks, invest in stocks efficiently. At $100 or $50, you can only buy 1 share or so of GOOD stocks, or risk low crap stocks like Pennies. The commissions alone kill you, even on Scottrade. At $25,000 or $50,000, you can upgrade to accounts that the BIG BOYs get into, and above $100,000 and $500,000, you get into wealthier fields.

[]Become an accredited investor, OVER TIME. Normally requires by fed. law, $300,000 income (married), $200,000 income (single), or a $1,000,000 net worth (normally excludes primary residence). My figures might not be adjusted for inflation, but an accredited investor IS up there. You gain access and FEDERAL approval to invest in MORE SELECT investments that the general public can't. This doesn't diminish risk, but it does mean if you're CAPABLE you get wealthier faster. I met a guy running a REAL ESTATE INVESTMENT TRUST (REIT) and he required accredited investors to join. The rates of return were high, on average, for having not to do anything. Above 20% per annum, for instance, plus cash flows.

[]Look at ALL expenses as the LOST opportunity cost of COMPOUNDING. That's what drove BUFFETT to what he did. He came from a family of ONLY modest means, but because he saw expenditures as the LOST opportunity cost of compounding, he was FRUGAL, to begin with, then amassed a fortune in his 30's and 40's. Even then, he could have stopped, but he genuinely loved investing and managing assets. Guys here don't want to be TOO FRUGAL, but the alternative is, passing through the 20's and 30's having a great boozing time, but of owning nothing. The opportunity is there, seize it.

[]From a poster here, set up 4 bank accounts. Instead of trying separate accounting WITHIN your 1 account, learn to manage your financial life like a business life. Separate bank cards, checks, and so forth. You'll be LESS likely to spend money when it is spread out and you can account for expenses BETTER when it's separated. Plus, if you stuff 5k into 1 bank account, hoping to INVEST some, SPEND SOME, and pay bills with it, you'll FEEL like you have more, therefore you can SPEND more. Not True. If you spread it out, that 1 account looks like less, so you're LESS, psychologically, likely to spend like you would have, though it's the same 5k spread out.

[]Have a plan for your money. Money should NEVER be stagnant. Even inside 401k's, a new IRS ruling allows you to MOVE the money to an IRA now and invest in whatever you want within the rules of the IRA. Pretty nice, eh? But that's your money, so use it. So often guys get mutual funds and just LEAVE them, HOPING they grow. If you understood HOW mutual funds work, you'd use the appropriate plan until a BETTER opportunity comes up. I monitor my mutual funds and purchase stocks, but I intend to roll some of my mutual fund cash into a REIT or VA, providing DIFFERENT asset class investments and opportunities.

If you found 100 workable R/E deals, or 1000, I guarantee you'd find 1. But so few go that far.

I'm Out

A-Unit
 

al77

Master Don Juan
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
0
Location
Great Lakes
Re: Re:

Hey A-Unit,

Thanks for the detailed post, I appreciate it :)
Several short comments:

Since I have a very little account, I cannot afford to pay commision. So I don't. I use buyandhold.com where for $15 you can make unlimited trades...but there is not stop limits or options, I can't even short stocks there. I just don't have enoughmoney to move to a more constly account that allows all of those things.

I have read about 10 and browsed thorugh another 10 books on how to pick stocks so far. Everyone is saying something different.. you can use this model, or that model... but ultimately no one knows what works. I try them, but it will take me years to learn anyway.

You average 20%? It is not a big deal to get 20-25% in one year, but if you average 20% EVERY every year, I think you a re close to Buffet in stock picking skills. I am not kidding.

I am not a huge proponent of bonds, I am rather discussing them.
I do agree with you on bonds though. I am looking at different alternatives: yes, stocks, RE are better than bonds. But the learning curve is tough and have very dangerous pits, especially in RE. Str8up will laugh at this since you already knows a lot.
Somebody how know about stocks also may think so.
But when you just started, everything seems very risky.
At least in stock you can but one share and play it. But in RE you cannot buy 1/123 of a house. You'have to risk practically a huge chunk of your money playing against people who already know how it works.

[] Work on you.
I'd love to do that. You'll have to come up with a good idea and some initial capital. I have none of them so far.

[]Begin a savings plan NOW.
Not that I am bragging about, but I probably one o fthe best saver here in this forum: I am extremely good at savings.

[]Learn to ROLL and PYRAMID profits forward. This goes for guys with 401k's and IRA's.
Can't have any of them.

[]Become an accredited investor,
Sure, in like..10-20 years.

[]Look at ALL expenses as the LOST opportunity cost of
I extremely frugal, much more frugal than anyone here.
Example: How much is your phone bill? Mine is about $10 a month, but wait, I call Europe now and then and it is included.
I pay about 8$ for my cell and the rest goes to international calls.

Ideally what I'd like to do is to get an "internship" with sombody who knows RE or stocks. I got such a guy, but he found a full time job that seems better than his stock part time thing and he basically quite investing in stock actively: moved to another country etc. The RE guys I know are not willing to share much with somebody who do not contribute anything in terms of money to their business (which is obvious).

Anyway, what are the really good books you can recommend fo stock investing?

I found two good ones so far:
1. Jon Markman.. "online investing.. something.
He found some simple models and use them to qualify stocks. Results were pretty decent, I am trying one of them now.

2. Zacks (Zacks.com). They wrote a book with many models they used. Good straightforward analysis, but the main problme they use their own criteria which they don't say much about it.
 

A-Unit

Master Don Juan
Joined
Aug 6, 2004
Messages
1,518
Reaction score
44
Re:

I actually use a program that we pay for here, VectorVest, in conjunction with IBD.

I worked @ Salomon Smith Barney during college, and 1 of the TOP brokers there used IBD pages and would cross reference that to the stock he was allowed to manage and gather $100,000,000 in assets in 5 years. Pretty phenomenal stuff.

In terms of PICKING, it's individual, that's why I advocated the Stock Market wizards books, and the Market Wizards stuff, as well as Turtle Trader stuff. You learn, ALL investing is PERSONAL. Even R/E stuff is. There's flipping, for quick profits. Buying apartment houses and duplexes. Commerical. Lease options. Refabs. Prefabs. Preconstruction. Development. Land Speculation. It's innumerable as it seems.

So a SYSTEM is what must be constructed for the investor.

-------------------------

The 20% isn't LONG enough LONG-term or with enough dollars to consider it miraculous. But it is higher.

------------------------

What I suggest in [Working on You] isn't a BUSINESS, but reading, researching. If you feel you KNOW everything, or there's no other WAY, read more. You've hit a wall. Keep reading.

-----------------------

For R/E, you can join clubs and what not, network with small REIT funds and firms, and ask the OLD doggers to bird dog and FIND property, until you create value. Win-Win. If you don't find someone like that, don't lose heart they exist.

Besides, if someone counts me (you) out, make your own way. If someone won't give you a shot in R/E or stocks or bonds, make your own way. Become a competitor of their's.

I truly believe if YOU WANT IT, you CAN GET IT, but you have to be willing to fail in the short-run to have it in the long-run.

--------------------------

Savings, only so much needs to be in banks. Whatever makes you feel good. Because in the long-run, it's behind inflation ANYWAYS. Banks are safety slots for AMASSING money until you're ready to deploy it, or to use for checking purposes and paying bills. Other than that, 100k, unless you're WICKED rich, is a waste in the bank, because good opportunities come and go in ALL asset classes ALL the time.

---------------------------

My OVERALL phone bill is about $80-100, but it's a Business write off so I pay nothing for it, I use it for Business Purposes, and Acts as my home phone, too. It might be high, but in a way, the biz pays for it, not I. And I consolidated personal and business/client calls in to 1. But good job on keeping it low.

Which makes a company more valuable?

Driving revenues higher, or costs lower?

Revenues higher. Keep costs in line and drive higher revenues and derive MORE income. More for your pockets. So while being frugal helps, it's only so that we have more capital for books, investing, for memberships, programs, and the like.

I'd say the only LUXURY i keep is cable. And that was so I could watch football and CNBC market watch. I'm considering dumping it when football ends.




Good Job though on all those things.

A-Unit
 

al77

Master Don Juan
Joined
Feb 13, 2005
Messages
1,271
Reaction score
0
Location
Great Lakes
Re: Re:

Originally posted by A-Unit
I worked @ Salomon Smith Barney during college, and 1 of the TOP brokers there used IBD pages and would cross reference that to the stock he was allowed to manage and gather $100,000,000 in assets in 5 years. Pretty phenomenal stuff.

The 20% isn't LONG enough LONG-term or with enough dollars to consider it miraculous. But it is higher.

My OVERALL phone bill is about $80-100, but it's a Business write off so I pay nothing for it, I use it for Business Purposes, and Acts as my home phone, too. It might be high, but in a way, the biz pays for it, not I. And I consolidated personal and business/client calls in to 1. But good job on keeping it low.
Did you have a chance to learn anything about that phenomenal guy? I mean what was his system, model, approach to stock picking?

I still believe averaging 20% is a great thing. You invest 60k and after 15 years you can retire (You'll reach 1 mil approx).

Correct me, I might not get what you said but if you write off the phone bill as business expense, and you own thsi business (crucial) then you still pay for it, but your taxable income is $80-100 less. If it is your biz, than this is very different from "I dont pay for it". It means you are taxed on x-100 instead of x, and this saving will be much less than $100. I guess you were talking about the biz you didn't own, right?
 
Top